Partly Boil – Water additions?
I do what is called “partly Boil”, meaning I only boil part of what I ferments. Hence, I add water to the final volume either during the boil, after the boil (hot or cold) or most often prior to adding yeast. The later hold the advantage of adding water with high amount of oxygen witch the yeast need for growing, but this also might a hold infection risk. Here in Denmark the groundwater is so clean there is literal no risk in doing so, but please take your own considerations!
Sometime if I sparge I add liquid during the boil, and if hoppy ales with many late additions of hops I have added ice or cold water after the cold break to lower temperature below the isomazion level at 80´C! The later and hot wort aeration is very much discussed and please do you own considerations!
Some people go to exstrems in cooling the wort very fast as they beleive it makes better beers. It suits me better to split the Brewing in 2 days and hence I practcise the “Easy Chilling” by just let the wort stay in the boiling pot or filter it hot over into the fermet vessel though a strainer! I do try o get the wort down under 80´C as fast as possbile and/or capture the time it takes and re-calculate the IBU in Beersmith2 to account for the isomarization there goes on until you reach 80´C. Especially for hoppy beers with a lot of late additions!
Besides that, then the main reason for a fast cool-down it to lower infection risk. The longer the time the wort is beteween 20-45´C whitout yeast the higher risk there is for an infection to take place. Hence, if the overnight chillling happens in a closed way either in the ferment vessel with airlock on, or in the pot for instance warped in metal-folie+plastic+ruberband (tight), then I am pretty sure the beer can stay this way whitout yeast for rather long time as this would utterl y have the same effect as a pateriuzation.
It depens, for very hoped beers and especiall for beers wih a high amount of late hops it is important to both remove the hops fast after flame out AND to cool it repadily down under 80´C. Else you will still have an isomerization of the bitter part of the hops and hence a more bitter beer. If you have only used hops at the begiining of the boil or a low IBU beer I don´t go to exstremes for cooling it down fast.
So in all, for high hops beers with late additions, I would reccomend to both remove as much of the hop material either use hop-bag or pour though a stainer, and sametime cool the wort down as fast as possbile either activily or cool pot with Water/ice in sink! I have also added cold water directly to the hot wort to cool it fast. Some questions this approach couse to oxidization.
It should be noted Beersmith2 can calculate taking the time it takes to get Down under 80´C into account, e.g. hence take the isomerization into account under cooldown!
So I use the easy chillling where I let the wort cool Downs by itself over the night, but for beers with late additions of hops I take action on as fast as possible to get it below 80´C. I capture this time and use Beersmih2 to calculate this impact on IBU then!
Yes, my experiance is fermentation for all ales yeast should be around 17-18`C and the wheat yeast only a few degrees higher at 18-20`C. Wheat yeast seems more forgiving, but I have reached best results by going rather low. I guess it partly becouse the yeast taste is hard to control and also hold in you mind, whereof, hops and malts might be easier to design, and hence, easier to keep in the mind.
Yes, for easiness I started by only use dry yeast, also they are way cheaper. But lately (end of 2017) must of my beers have been using liquid yeast!
Nope, never (almost never at least, don it twice I guess). The risk of infection and to oxygenate the beer is to high, also it takes time!
I re-hydrate mostly and especially important for the white beers as lagers and APA´s where any hint of yeast smell/tastes is unwanted, then I add the yeast to 100 ml 29-30`C water, let it stands untouched for 15 min, then strew it a bit, and thereafter try to bring it down to the fermentation temperature over other 15-45 min. Pitch at the fermentation temperature!
For a more Scientific understanding please see:
I carbonate for 10 days at around 25`C in bottles close to the house-heater! Remember to do it in closed way as the bottles can turn into bottles-bombs if infected or if fermentation was not completed!
I store my yeast in fridge in a small bottle if I have open them and not used all (in this case I try close them as good as I can afterwards). Every time I use a yeast I clean it by ethanol.
As I normally brew a volume of 10 liters equaling ½ pack for ales and wheat beers, then I store them in the bottle to separate a bit form the environment of a many time open fridge. I try to use the rest of the pack in 1 – 2 months then.
I clean them thoroughly before first time I use them, afterwards they get emptied by water 2-3 times from the tap to remove the yeast, then they get into StarSan bath overnight, then again emptied with 2-3 times tap water to remove StarSan leftovers, and just before use I put them in the cold oven and heats them to 120`C for 20-30 min. Letting them cool a bit off coz to my hands 🙂
It depends! For wheat beers I have mostly just sprinkled on top of the wort and been trying to do this at the same temperature as the fermentation should undergo. For the more white beers, e.g. largers or IPA´s and APA´s I would strongly recommend to consider to both re-hydrate and ensure the hydrated yeast is added at the fermentation temperature. For advice on re-hydrate please see more topic in the FAQ!
For a more Scientific understanding of re-hydration please see:
The basis malt I buy milled. But I plan not to buy more basis malt home than I can use in 3 months time coz to risk of less efficacy, lipids turning old, giving metallic tastes etc.. By basis malt I mean Maris Otter, Pilsner Malt and Wheat Malt. For the more special malts I buy them home in 1 kg un-milled and then mill them by cake roller (nice job for the kids) or by using the Cafe grinder!